**Interview with Guan Kailun: Overcoming Danger to Summit K2**
On September 18, I had the opportunity to sit down with Guan Kailun, an Italian-Chinese mountaineer, to discuss his recent, harrowing experience summiting K2, also known as Gasherbrum II. Despite being “only” 8,611 meters tall, this mountain is infamous for its climbing difficulty and often earns the nickname “killer peak.”
“When I think back on that climb, I still feel a thrill of fear,” Guan recalled. “I was staring at a massive ice wall above me with a sheer drop beneath my feet. Ice blocks were continuously falling, and snow was collapsing around us. At that moment, it felt like my life was in the hands of fate. All I could do was pray that an avalanche wouldn’t strike.”
Trapped at an altitude of 8,260 meters—which is referred to as the “death zone”—Guan spent four grueling hours battling the elements. He shared some chilling images from that experience, which captured the peril and tension of the situation.
Interestingly, Guan only began his mountaineering journey about two years ago, and K2 was actually his ninth peak summited above 5,000 meters. I was intrigued to learn how someone without prior climbing experience could achieve such impressive feats.
Originally from Wenzhou, Zhejiang Province, Guan moved to Rome with his family during his elementary school years. He started his entrepreneurial journey at 17 in the fashion industry. “I was fortunate to ride the wave of success, but as a young businessman, I faced uncertain times. It was through mountaineering that I discovered a new direction in life,” he explained.
His passion for climbing ignited after he stumbled upon a mountain climbing video online, which sparked a longing to see snow-capped peaks for himself. Shortly after, he decided to take on Haba Snow Mountain, a 5,396-meter peak in Yunnan Province known as a good introductory climb.
Guan recounted the challenges he faced on his first ascent. “When I went to Haba in September 2022, the conditions were tough due to the rainy season. On the way to base camp, we encountered landslides that sent both the mules and us tumbling several times. The climb itself wasn’t overly difficult, but I suffered from severe altitude sickness since it was my first experience at such heights.”
As they climbed, the scenery transformed dramatically, filled with lush forests, meadows, rocky outcrops, and snow-covered slopes. Standing at the summit for the first time, Guan felt a profound sense of wonder. “I was speechless. The view was breathtaking, with the vast, snowy mountains below resembling dormant beasts waiting to burst through the clouds.”
Over the next year and a half, Guan tackled several significant peaks, including Manaslu and Muztagh Ata. However, the most perilous moment came during his ascent of Langtang Lirung in Sichuan, where he faced extreme physical challenges. “At 6,100 meters, I was overwhelmed with fatigue and even suggested to my guide that he should leave me behind. It was only through his relentless encouragement that I managed to slowly descend. I realized that if I had truly given up, I might never have returned.”
Following his summit of Manaslu, K2 became the next target. On June 30, he and his team set off for the base camp, a trek that took nearly a week of strenuous hiking. “The journey was tougher than I had anticipated. We traveled along treacherous roads in an old off-road vehicle, navigating cliffs and frequent rockfalls. The real challenge started when we embarked on an 85-kilometer trek along the cliffside,” he noted.
Once at base camp, the team had to wait for favorable weather conditions. “We spent more than two weeks waiting for a suitable window. Many of my teammates began packing to leave, but on July 23, just as we were about to give up hope, the perfect opportunity appeared. We decided to start our summit attempt at dawn,” Guan recounted.
Climbing K2 involves navigating steep ice walls, and Guan’s team encountered a particularly dangerous section known as the “House Chimney,” which only allowed one climber at a time. “As we ascended, we faced numerous treacherous ice walls,” he said, reflecting on the frightening conditions they encountered.
On July 27 at 10 PM, they initiated their final push to the summit. Unfortunately, they soon became trapped in the notorious “death zone” due to a collapse. “This is where many climbers have lost their lives. I struggled to breathe as I recalled a previous fatality that occurred right where I stood,” he shared.
For hours, they contended with harrowing weather until daylight finally broke, illuminating the summit in golden hues and reflecting off the snow—a sight they had longed for. “As the weather improved, we pressed on and finally reached the top at 9:58 AM on July 28,” Guan said, filled with a mix of pride and relief, especially when he took a photo holding a picture of his late grandmother—fulfilling a personal wish.
However, the descent was just as treacherous. “As the sun rose, ice began to melt, causing ice fragments to rain down like projectiles,” Guan recalled, a shiver in his voice. “We were so exhausted that, at first, we could only take twenty steps before needing to rest. That dwindled down to ten, and eventually just three.”
As they descended, desperate for water and nourishment, Guan had to get creative. “I started eating snow, brushing off the dirt because I couldn’t bear the thirst any longer,” he remembered, his tone heavy with the sense of survival.
The weather worsened during their descent, bringing snowstorms that obscured the path, causing one teammate to slip. “At that point, I could only pray to K2 for mercy. I was determined to make it out alive,” he said, reflecting on the psychological challenges of the climb.
After seven days of climbing and a mere three days to return, Guan’s team finally made it back to safety. “The last day was a grueling 18-hour trek, pushing through exhaustion,” he recalled.
Now, back from this thrilling yet exhausting experience, Guan plans to focus on climbing less challenging peaks while reconnecting with his family and business life. “Climbing high peaks isn’t just about money; it requires adequate financial resources. The costs of this climb were entirely out of my pocket; I opted out of sponsorship to preserve the purity of my climbing experience,” he stated.
For Guan, the essence of mountaineering extends beyond reaching summits. “The true significance of ascents is to respect the power of nature,” he concluded. “Whether you’re a novice or a veteran, mountains treat everyone equally. They demand humility and reverence.”
When I asked him what fuels his passion for climbing, he echoed the words of British explorer George Mallory: “Because the mountain is there.” The allure of summits, the beauty of the snow, and the stars in the sky continue to inspire him.
