Crisp soy chicken biryani and blackberry rice pudding- Yotam Ottolenghi’s comforting rice recipes

When it comes to comfort cooking, I could easily lose myself in a mountain of pasta, but my go-to ingredient is rice. There’s something incredibly satisfying about how rice absorbs flavors and softens during cooking. The variety of rice types and the endless possibilities for cooking—be it sweet or savory—make this humble grain a comforting staple for many.

One of my favorite dishes is a unique fusion of Hainanese chicken rice and Cantonese soy chicken, inspired by South Asian baked rice dishes. The idea struck me while diving into some reading about Persian biryanis, all while craving the cozy taste of soy chicken. Armed with an abundance of ginger, I created a soy chicken and mushroom biryani that beautifully marries southern Chinese flavors with biryani techniques. It goes wonderfully with thinly sliced cucumbers dressed in vinegar and sugar, a drizzle of chili oil, pickled ginger, and a handful of chopped cilantro.

Here’s how you can make it:

**Prep Time:** 30 minutes
**Cook Time:** 1 hour 30 minutes
**Serves:** 4-6

**Ingredients:**
– 2 tbsp vegetable oil
– 30g ginger, unpeeled and sliced into ½ cm pieces
– 2 leeks, green parts chopped, white parts reserved (300g)
– Salt
– 1 star anise
– 1 tsp fennel seeds
– 1 cinnamon stick
– 2 bay leaves
– 50g dark brown sugar
– 150ml soy sauce
– 2 tbsp Shaoxing wine (or cooking sake)
– 30g dried shiitake mushrooms
– 1kg bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
– 500g basmati rice (soaked for at least 30 minutes and drained)
– 2 tsp sesame oil
– 1 tbsp cornflour (for finishing)

**For the Crispy Leeks:**
– 150ml vegetable oil
– 30g ginger, peeled and finely chopped
– 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

**Instructions:**

Start by poaching the chicken. In a large pot, heat the vegetable oil, ginger, green leek tops, star anise, fennel seeds, cinnamon, and bay leaves over medium-high heat for about three minutes until fragrant. Then, stir in the brown sugar, soy sauce, and Shaoxing wine.

After two minutes, add the mushrooms and chicken, followed by a liter of water. Bring it to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for 20 minutes. After cooking, turn off the heat, cover the pot, and let the chicken rest for 30 minutes.

Once it’s cooled, shred the chicken into bite-sized pieces and set the mushrooms aside. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl—you should have about 1.2 liters. Clean the pot and line its base with greaseproof paper.

For the crispy leeks, slice the reserved leek whites into matchsticks. Combine them in a frying pan with vegetable oil and salt, frying over medium-high heat for about 10 minutes until they start to brown. Then add the ginger and garlic, cooking for another two minutes before draining them on kitchen paper.

To assemble the biryani, slice the reserved poached mushrooms and mix them with the drained rice and sesame oil. Layer one-third of the rice in the pot, followed by one-third of the chicken and crispy leeks. Repeat two more times, then pour in 800ml of the stock just to cover the rice. Bring to a boil, cover with a clean tea towel and a lid, then reduce to low heat for 35 minutes. Once finished, let it rest for another five minutes without uncovering.

While the rice cooks, add the remaining 400ml of stock to a frying pan over high heat. Whisk the cornflour with a tablespoon of cold water and mix it into the simmering stock, cooking until it thickens to a gravy consistency.

To serve, invert the pot onto a large platter, peel off the paper, and fluff the rice. Drizzle with the gravy and enjoy with your favorite chili oil and a refreshing cucumber and cilantro salad.

Another dish that really stands out is my cinnamon and lemon rice pudding, topped with blackberries. I absolutely love the crisp, brulee-like crust that forms on top—making it a delightful treat no matter the meal.

**Prep Time:** 10 minutes
**Cook Time:** 2 hours
**Serves:** 6

**Ingredients:**
– 50g unsalted butter, melted
– 150g arborio or pudding rice
– 125g caster sugar
– 1 tsp ground cinnamon
– Zest of 1 lemon (peeled in strips)
– ⅛ tsp flaked salt
– 1.1 liters whole milk
– 400ml double cream
– 200g blackberries

**Instructions:**

Preheat your oven to 160°C (or 325°F). In a baking dish, combine the melted butter, rice, 100g of sugar, three-quarters of a teaspoon of cinnamon, lemon zest, salt, milk, and cream.

Bake uncovered for 1 hour and 50 minutes, until the rice is tender and slightly saucy. After removing it from the oven, give it a good stir and scatter the blackberries on top, gently pressing them in.

Increase your oven to the highest grill setting. Mix the remaining sugar with the leftover cinnamon and sprinkle it over the rice pudding. Grill for about three to four minutes until the crust is golden with some darkened spots, and the blackberries have burst.

Let it rest for five minutes before serving. This dish is perfect any time of day—whether for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.