Grandpa Endo, a blind man who walked alongside Josie for over ten days on the Shikoku pilgrimage, has a remarkable story. In America, hikers often consider three iconic long-distance trails as sacred: the Appalachian Trail (AT), the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), and the Continental Divide Trail (CDT). The Appalachian Trail stretches over 2,200 miles from Georgia to Maine, while the Pacific Crest Trail runs about 2,650 miles from the California-Mexico border to the Washington-Canada border. Josie, a hiking enthusiast from Taiwan, successfully completed these trails in 2017 and 2018, respectively.
Since beginning her long-distance hiking journey on the Shikoku pilgrimage in Japan, Josie’s passion for hiking has deepened, and her mileage has steadily increased. Over the past nine years, she has hiked more than 10,000 kilometers across three continents, encountering unique landscapes and people along the way.
Born and raised in Keelung, Taiwan, Josie attributes her walking talent to her hometown’s geography. “People from Keelung are great walkers,” she explains. “Keelung is a port city surrounded by mountains, so everywhere you go, you have to hike. I think it’s rare to find girls from Keelung with thick calves.”
After working as an office worker in Taiwan for many years, Josie and her husband moved to New York for further studies, hoping for a change in their lives. After graduation, they decided to stay. In 2014, after settling in Washington, D.C., Josie brought up the well-known Shikoku pilgrimage, which is about 750 miles long and connects 88 temples in Japan. While she had always enjoyed walking, she was curious about what it would be like to hike a longer distance. She told her husband, “When I retire, I want to walk this path.”
“Why wait until retirement? You’re young and have the energy now,” her husband urged.
With his encouragement, Josie quickly booked a flight for a trip scheduled two months later.
Reflecting on her experience, Josie regards the Shikoku pilgrimage as her “first love” in hiking, marking her introduction to the appeal of solo trekking. Although she started alone, the companions she met along the way became just as memorable as the scenery. She recalls meeting Grandpa Endo, a blind man she met while asking for directions. They ended up walking together for over ten days. Despite his visual impairment, Grandpa Endo never complained about the challenging weather or getting lost. Josie found her pace slowing down, allowing her to savor the scenery while listening to Grandpa Endo’s many stories.
In her recently published memoir, “Walking Inward,” Josie recounts how Grandpa Endo would take out a black-and-white photo of his mother each time he entered a temple. One of his goals for completing the pilgrimage was to honor his mother on the 60th anniversary of her passing. By the end of his journey through all 88 temples, he had collected 88 stamps on his white outfit, which he calmly referred to as his future shroud.
Tragically, Grandpa Endo passed away from stomach cancer about four years after completing the pilgrimage. His wife mentioned that he always spoke fondly of the support he received during the journey. Josie believes, however, that it was Grandpa Endo who truly impacted her life. “I truly got to know an amazing person,” she says.
While long-distance hiking brings beautiful views and companionship, it also poses significant physical challenges. The Shikoku pilgrimage was Josie’s first attempt at long-distance hiking, putting her to the test against the elements. Blisters were common, and excruciating pain was something she had to endure. However, she emphasizes that there is no “best” gear; what matters is what works best for you personally. Hikers need to figure out the right combination of shoes, socks, and layering through experience. For Josie, wearing two pairs of socks worked wonders for her comfort.
After completing the Shikoku pilgrimage in just over 30 days, Josie went on to hike three routes of the Camino de Santiago in Spain two years later, taking over 40 days. Unlike the serene temples of Shikoku, the Camino trails along the coast and through vibrant towns offered a different kind of beauty. This European pilgrimage was made possible again thanks to her husband’s support. Josie describes her month on the pilgrimage as almost like a vacation, staying in Catholic hostels for only 5 euros a night, where she could enjoy hot showers and meals to rejuvenate herself.
Her long-distance hikes in Japan and Spain opened the door to a new chapter in her life, but it was the challenges of the AT and PCT, with their unpredictable terrain and weather, that truly shaped Josie into a “hardcore hiker.” Stay tuned for her amazing adventures on these trails, which will be featured in next Tuesday’s podcast and accompanying article.
