As traditional Chinese “pankou” buttons make their way into contemporary fashion, they are quickly becoming a trendy accessory among the younger generation. During a visit to a clothing shop located in the historical cultural district of Yantai, Shandong, we encountered Sun Yan, a master craftsman and an inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage of pankou making, diligently working on customer orders.
Sun Yan explained the significance behind various pankou designs, which include symbols of happiness, prosperity, and good fortune, such as the bat button, gourd button, butterfly button, and the four-cornered good luck button. “Pankou not only serve as closures for garments but also add a distinctive touch to the overall design. Each pankou carries a beautiful meaning, reflecting the aesthetic values of Chinese culture,” she shared.
Growing up learning the craft from her elders, Sun’s passion for pankou inspired her to pursue a degree in fashion design. She elaborated on the intricate process of creating these buttons, which involves more than twenty steps. The first critical step is making the fabric strip for the button. Sun demonstrated how she carefully places copper wire in the center of a two-centimeter wide strip of fabric, folds the edges inward, and stitches along the crease, completing the strip.
The process continues with various steps: cutting the fabric, applying glue, pressing the fabric, twisting, and shaping it until it transforms into a solid, rounded button head. Finally, filling and securing it results in an exquisite pankou.
The popularity of traditional clothing styles has surged in recent years, leading to a growing demand for pankou, especially around festivals like Dragon Boat Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival, and National Day. “Customers flock to order custom pankou during these times,” Sun noted.
In addition to crafting traditional pankou, Sun is committed to preserving and innovating this art. She has revived and improved over 500 new styles of Chinese pankou designs and has incorporated pankou elements into various products including pendants, decorative items, artwork, brooches, earrings, and necklaces, all of which have gained significant traction in the market.
“Pankou need to evolve as decorative items, utilizing new forms and mediums. Through these innovative products, I hope to blend traditional techniques with modern practicality, making pankou more functional,” Sun concluded.
